Hida Kawai

There's no lodging at the ski area. The closest options are Yamabiko-kan, a simple, affordable inn about 13 minutes away in Kawai with Japanese and Western rooms, and Hotel Kikori, about 13 minutes away near Furukawa, known for its smooth, skin-softening hot spring and Hida beef dinners.

Hida-Furukawa, about 25 minutes away, is a charming old town of white-walled storehouses and canals, with small ryokan and inns. Takayama, about 35 minutes away, is the obvious base. It has the widest range of ryokan, hotels and guesthouses, a beautifully preserved old town, morning markets and excellent restaurants. It's also a good base for other Hida resorts.

The No.2 slope is the reason to come. Seen from the base, it's the big triangle of snow to the right of the No.2 lift, about 710 m long, and it's left completely ungroomed. It stays closed during the week to collect snow, then opens on weekends, holidays and over New Year. A groomed forest track loops around it for intermediates. Beside the No.2 lift, a natural gully known to locals as Pow Heaven fills with soft snow and is a favourite with snowboarders. The No.1 slope, about 610 m, is a wide, groomed run that's perfect for carving and is also used by the local junior race team for gate training. A separate snow debut area for beginners and kids is kept apart from the main slopes. The No.2 lift only runs on weekends and holidays, while the No.3 and No.4 lifts run every operating day. Pitches range from about 14 degrees to 35 degrees. Closed slopes are strictly off-limits, and the resort asks people not to hike them during the week, both for safety and so the stash stays fresh for everyone. There's no tree skiing or backcountry access.

By car: about 34 minutes (24 km) from Hida-Takayama interchange via Route 41 and the Furukawa Asagiri Kaido, or about 35 minutes from Hida-Kiyomi interchange. From Hida-Furukawa Station, it's about 25 minutes. New tunnels have made the drive much shorter than it used to be. Winter tyres are essential. Parking is free, with space for about 100 cars.

By train: take the JR Takayama line to Hida-Furukawa, then a taxi. There's no regular bus, so a car is the best option. Our winter car hire and driving guide explains what you need.

Hida Kawai is perfect for powder lovers who can time a visit for a weekend after a snowy week, and for travellers based in Takayama who want a cheap, quirky, local ski day. Families will enjoy the separate beginner area, free kids space and cheap tickets. Intermediates have a nice groomed run and a cruisy forest track. Anyone wanting a big resort, a village or weekday powder should look elsewhere.

The second-floor restaurant in the center house makes everything by hand, and the Kawai ramen, with carefully made soup and chashu, and the katsu curry are both local favourites. Hutte Noasobi, a cafe next to the center house, serves Vietnamese pho in a cosy wooden space, and sometimes sells gohei mochi, grilled rice cakes coated in a sweet walnut and miso sauce.

Après means a hot spring and dinner in Takayama or Furukawa. Try Hida beef, Takayama ramen and local sake from the breweries in Takayama's old town and Furukawa. Our food and drink guide to Japanese ski towns has more ideas.

• Lift hours: 8:30 to 16:00. The season usually runs from late December to mid-March.
• Closed days: from early January, the resort closes on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and in March it opens on weekends only.
• Powder slope: the No.2 slope opens on weekends, holidays and New Year only. Get there early on a Saturday after a snowy week.
• Cheap tickets: weekday day tickets are very cheap, and preschoolers ski free with a free child ticket from the ticket office.
• Payment: cash, cards, PayPay and Sarubobo Coin (Hida's local digital money) are accepted at the ticket office, but cards don't work at the restaurant.

Nearby resorts worth pairing

Star Spur Ryokufu Resort Hida Nagareha is about 30 minutes away near Kamioka and is a bigger, family-friendly resort. Honoki Daira and the Okuhida resorts are about an hour south via Takayama, and Washigatake and Dynaland are about 90 minutes south. Our Nagano Alps and Hokuriku road trip links Hida with the Northern Alps.