Togakushi

Most visitors stay in Nagano City and treat Togakushi as a day trip. The station area has the widest choice of hotels and restaurants, and the direct ski bus leaves from right outside. Hotel Metropolitan Nagano is connected to the station and is about as convenient as it gets, while Dormy Inn Nagano has a large public bath and the chain's free late-night ramen, which goes down well after a day on the bumps. Staying in the city also lets you switch to Shiga Kogen, Nozawa Onsen or Myoko Kogen when the weather changes.

For something more memorable, stay in Togakushi itself. The village around Togakushi Shrine has a cluster of shukubo, historic pilgrim lodges run by families who have been connected to the shrine for generations. Shukubo Gokui is one of the best known, with a thatched roof, home-cooked dinners and a quiet atmosphere at night. Yokokura Ryokan, near the Chusha middle shrine, is another long-standing inn. Expect tatami rooms, early dinners and very little to do after dark, which is exactly the point.

Small lodges and pensions near the ski area are the third option for early starts. They are basic and friendly, with dinner included. Our guide to where to stay on a Japan ski trip explains the trade-off between a city base and a mountain stay.

The four advanced courses facing the main base are what set Togakushi apart. Champion is short and steep at 31 degrees, Challenge is a 26-degree mogul field, Adventure is a 650 m line of steep bumps and Silver sits between them at 28 degrees. Because they face north, the snow holds up after lunch instead of turning to mush, and on a powder morning they are the first place the locals head. Further up, Fresh and Grand are longer black runs of around a kilometre that are ideal for fast carving on a groomed morning. The high-speed pairs from the base are the quickest way to cycle the front faces, and the quads lift you to the summit for the longer intermediate runs such as Menou and Togakky A, both about 1.5 km. When storms come in from the Sea of Japan they have dropped most of their moisture over the Myoko Kogen peaks and the Northern Alps, so what reaches Togakushi is noticeably light. Fresh snow on the groomers gets tracked fast, but soft snow lingers along the edges of the runs and in the short gaps through the trees. There is no gate system, the boundary lines are enforced, and the terrain beyond is serious national park mountain country.

Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano, about 80 to 100 minutes. Direct buses run from Nagano station to the ski area during the season and take around an hour. The resort also sells bus packs at the Nagano station information office that bundle the return bus fare with a lift ticket, which is usually the cheapest way to do a day trip without a car. Our guide to getting around on a Japan ski trip covers the train and bus links in more detail.

Driving from Nagano takes around 50 minutes up a steep, winding mountain road that gains about 800 m. Winter tyres are mandatory, and chains in the boot are a sensible backup. The road can be slow after heavy snowfall and icy late in the day, so leave early and give yourself extra time for the drive down. If you are hiring a car, read our winter car hire and driving guide first.

Togakushi is a great fit for strong skiers who care about technique. If you enjoy steep bumps, race-quality groomers or working on your carving, the front runs will keep you busy for a day or two. Confident intermediates have a good mix of long cruisers from the summit and can try the steeper faces when they feel ready.

Families are well looked after. The Ninja Slope is a kids' play area with obstacles and small features, the kids' park has a 30 m moving walkway, and there is a childcare room at the Guest House Iwato base that takes children from 18 months for a minimum of two hours. The No. 4 lift near the same base is gentle enough for complete beginners.

It is less suited to freeriders looking for open trees or sidecountry, or anyone wanting a terrain park as the main event. Snowboarders are welcome and the wide groomers are fun for carving, but the culture leans skier. If you are still choosing a base for a Nagano trip, our Japan ski resort finder can narrow it down.

Togakushi is one of the few ski areas where the lunch is part of the reason to come. The resort restaurants serve Togakushi soba made from local buckwheat, which is thin, slightly rustic and served cold on a bamboo tray in bundles. They also do a raclette that once won a national ski-resort food competition, which is not what you expect to find on a Japanese mountain.

After skiing, drive or ride the bus down to the shrine area. Uzuraya, near the Chusha middle shrine, is the most famous soba restaurant in Togakushi and has queues to match on weekends, so arrive early or expect a wait. Many other soba shops line the roads around the shrines, most closing early in winter. If you have time, walk the cedar-lined approach to the inner shrine, beautiful in deep snow (snowshoes help).

Après is practically non-existent in Togakushi. If you want izakaya and a few drinks, head back to Nagano City, where the streets around the station and Zenkoji temple have plenty of options. Our Japan ski nightlife and après guide has tips for finding them.

• Lift hours: 8:30 to 16:15, changing with weather. There is no night skiing.
• Season: Mid-December to the end of March. The smaller Chusha area only runs on weekends and holidays until early March.
• Lift tickets: Buy online for a discount on the window price. Family and student packs add meal vouchers, rental or the bus.
• Off-piste: There is no gate system. The ski area is inside a national park, and anything beyond the boundary is closed and unpatrolled.
• Snow: January and February bring the lightest snow. The north-facing front runs stay in good shape longest, so save them for the afternoon if the sun is out.
• Language: English is limited. Basic phrases and a translation app are enough, and the staff are patient.
• Racing and training: The Iwato course is reserved for gate training, and other runs are sometimes partly roped off for races.

Nearby resorts worth pairing

From Nagano City you can reach a lot of skiing in a day. Shiga Kogen is the pick for altitude and mileage, Nozawa Onsen for a full village day and steeper terrain, and Madarao for marked tree runs. Myoko Kogen is just across the prefectural border for deep snow and a classic snow town, and the Hakuba Valley is the call when you want big mountain vertical.