Myoko Kogen

Let’s get real — Myoko’s snow is the kind that has you floating instead of fighting. Averaging around 13 metres per season, storms roll in off the Sea of Japan and plaster the slopes with a dense-but-dry snowpack that holds a carve beautifully. It’s not as feather-light as Hokkaido, but it’s consistent, deep, and sticks to the steeps in a way that keeps lines in play for days.

Suginohara is the high-altitude heavyweight, topping out at 1 855 m. The runs here are some of the longest in Japan, with a signature 8.5 km top-to-bottom cruise that doubles as a leg-burner and a powder line depending on the day. The upper lifts deliver wide-open alpine turns and gentle rollovers before feeding into trees where the real magic happens. On storm days, visibility can be low — stick to the tree lines for definition and shelter.

Akakura Kanko and Akakura Onsen sit closer to the village and offer a nice mix of intermediate groomers, powder fields, and lift-served sidecountry. The terrain under the Hotel #3 lift at Akakura Kanko is a local favourite for tree skiing — long, playful shots that you can lap without too much traverse pain. Akakura Onsen has more of a traditional ski town feel, with slopes that funnel right back into the heart of the action.

Ikenotaira is mellow and wide, making it the family and beginner-friendly corner of Myoko, but don’t write it off entirely — when the storms hit, the quieter atmosphere here can leave sneaky powder pockets untouched. Seki Onsen, on the other hand, is the wild child — small, steep, and deep, with a backcountry vibe. Patrol presence is minimal, avalanche awareness is essential, and the reward for being prepared is some of the most untracked lines you’ll find anywhere in Honshu.

Crowd management is where Myoko quietly shines. With five separate ski areas, people spread out naturally, leaving you space to hunt. Even on powder days, the right combination of early starts and resort-hopping can keep you in fresh turns from first chair to last. Local tip — hit Suginohara for first tracks after a storm, then move to Seki or the Akakuras once it gets tracked. If you have the legs, finish the day cruising Ikenotaira’s tree lines, where powder lingers in the shade.

Myoko is a powder hound’s paradise. Advanced and expert riders will be drawn to the trees, sidecountry, and the relatively easy access to proper backcountry lines. Intermediates can roam freely between resorts, gradually dipping into off-piste zones as confidence builds. Beginners are well catered for at Ikenotaira and on the gentler slopes of the Akakuras. If you’re chasing luxury, high-speed lifts, and non-stop nightlife, you might find it a little rustic — but that’s exactly the charm for many.

One of the best parts of staying in Myoko is that you’re not trapped in a single purpose-built resort village. The lodgings are scattered across a handful of traditional onsen towns, each with its own vibe. Akakura Onsen is the most convenient for ski-in/ski-out access to two major ski areas, plus the highest density of bars and restaurants. You’ll find everything here from family-run pensions to mid-range hotels, with prices starting surprisingly low given the location.

Ryokans in Myoko are the kind of places you remember for life — tatami floors, futon bedding, steaming outdoor onsens surrounded by snow, and multi-course kaiseki dinners that turn every evening into an event. Kogakuro is a classic choice, offering all of that plus warm hospitality from owners who know the mountains inside out. For budget travellers, there are Western-style hostels and guesthouses where you can score a bed, breakfast, and some local tips for less than a big city dinner bill.

If you’re looking to splurge, the Akakura Kanko Hotel is the crown jewel — perched mid-mountain with sweeping views, ski-in/ski-out convenience, and the kind of service that makes you forget you’re in the rugged heart of Niigata. Even if you don’t stay there, a soak in their onsen is worth the detour. Just keep in mind that high-end options are still the exception rather than the rule here, which keeps Myoko’s atmosphere firmly on the authentic side.

Food in Myoko is all about hearty, comforting fare. Around Akakura, you can tuck into steaming bowls of ramen, perfectly crispy karaage, and plates of sizzling yakitori before heading back into the snow. Small izakayas are where the après magic happens — order some sake, share a few plates, and swap powder stories with whoever’s sitting next to you.

Après-ski here isn’t about thumping bass and packed dance floors — it’s about slow evenings that stretch out over hot food, good drinks, and maybe a moonlit soak in an outdoor bath. For a mid-ski snack, track down the tiny bakery that turns out warm, red-bean-filled buns — nothing takes the chill out of a deep-winter day faster.

Myoko Kogen is easy to reach without a car. From Tokyo or Narita, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Nagano, then hop on the local train to Myoko Kogen Station — from there, it’s a short bus or taxi to most accommodation. Shuttle services run regularly between the main resorts during the season, so you can mix and match ski areas without driving.

If you do rent a car, winter-ready tyres or chains are essential. The Sea of Japan weather can turn roads slick in minutes. The bonus of driving is total freedom — you can chase conditions to nearby resorts like Madarao, Tangram, or Lotte Arai without worrying about schedules.

• Lift hours: Generally 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM
• Avalanche safety: Tree and sidecountry terrain is plentiful but comes with risk — carry a beacon, shovel, probe, and know how to use them.
• Weather patterns: NW storms bring the goods; visibility can drop fast at higher elevations.
• Language: English is common enough in Akakura, less so in smaller villages — a few Japanese phrases go a long way.
• Nearby resorts: Madarao, Tangram, Lotte Arai, Nozawa Onsen, and Shiga Kogen are all within day-trip range.