Seki Onsen

Seki rides like a storm-day playground: two straight-up chairs with short hikes line you up for fall-line bowls and glades that fill in with every gust. The upper chair delivers the goods — mid-20s degrees in the favoured lines, steeper pockets near the trees, and a runout that seams back to the base via a soft cat track. Snow comes in deep and often; start skier’s left under the top chair for early hits, then shift right as tracks converge and wind buff smooths things out. Everything in-bounds is fair game, but ropes mean ropes — ducking boundaries here is frowned upon and patrol will pull tickets. When visibility tanks, milk the lower trees; when it clears, jump on first chair again and repeat until quads are jelly.

Powder hounds who value quality over quantity — riders who will happily trade big-vertical tram laps for deep, repeatable tree shots and a chairlift community that cheers every snorkel day. Splitboarders and tourers can use Seki as a low-key base when the wider Myoko backcountry is stable, but you don’t need skins to have a day to remember. Pure groomer carvers, terrain-park lappers, or travelers needing English-heavy infrastructure will feel limited; so will folks expecting nightlife beyond lot beers and an onsen soak.

Stay on-site in Seki Onsen if you crave that old-Japan ski mood — steaming baths and wooden corridors. Asahiya Ryokan, Tomiya Ryokan, and Komatsuya are classic, family-run stays with hearty set dinners and tatami rooms that smell like cedar and fresh rice. You’ll roll out the futon and listen to the wind thrash the cedars, then pad down to the bath to bring feeling back to your toes.

Prefer something with a touch more polish? Base in Akakura (15–25 minutes by car, depending on snow). You’ll find bigger hotels and Western-style beds, plus easy access to Akakura Kanko and Akakura Onsen if Seki holds for avy work. It’s also a safe bet for groups mixing ability levels — the non-stop powder chasers peel to Seki at dawn while cruisers enjoy broader groomers in town.

On a tighter budget or if you’re rail-based, Joetsu-Myoko station area has business hotels that make dawn patrol painless. You’ll trade charm for convenience but gain simple breakfasts and parking. Either way, book dinner with your lodging — Seki’s village eateries are limited, and ryokan meals are half the experience.

At the base, the cafeteria keeps it classic: katsu curry, ramen, and rice bowls that punch above their weight because the Koshihikari rice is next-level. If you see Restaurant Taube open, detour for a plate of their homey specials — it’s a local favorite. Up the road, Akakura has more options: izakaya for yakitori and hot pots, a couple of pizzerias, and bakeries for early-morning fuel. Après here is low-key — trade rowdy bars for an onsen hop and a good Niigata sake. If you’re chasing a celebratory bite, hunt down hegi soba in Myoko or a crispy pork cutlet that tastes like victory after a knee-deep morning.

From Tokyo, the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Joetsu-Myoko gets you close in ~2 hours. From there it’s ~40 minutes by car or a local train hop to Sekiyama Station and a short bus/taxi up to the village. Drivers will find the ascent straightforward from the Myoko IC — figure ~20 minutes on dry roads — but this is one of Japan’s great snow funnels. Mount proper winter tires, carry chains, and expect plow berms and spindrift during active storms. The approach can be narrow and sightlines short; take it slow and leave earlier than you think on big days.

• Lift hours
  Typically 9:00 – 16:30. On fierce storm days or high hazard, the upper chair may open late or shut completely.
• Avalanche / backcountry reality
  Terrain is compact but steep pockets exist, and snow loads here are no joke. In-bounds control is solid for the scale; beyond the boundary has serious consequences. No gate network — keep it roped and save the sidecountry for stable windows with full kit.
• Weather & snow patterns
  Northwest fetch off the Sea of Japan plus Myoko’s orographic lift equals frequent resets. Expect tree bombs, wind slab in exposed rollovers, and blower mornings that go to hero snow by lunch. It can ride top-to-bottom soft for days on end.
• Language & culture
  English is limited; staff are accommodating and kind. Cash rules more than cards in village ryokan. Mind quiet hours — this is a proper hot spring hamlet.
• Unique touches
  The onsen water is iron-rich and can run a rust-red hue — perfect after trenching through cold smoke all morning.
• Pair it with
  Akakura Kanko and Akakura Onsen (bigger trail grids), Suginohara (long cruisers, higher alpine feel), Lotte Arai (steeps and controlled freeride zones), Madarao/Tangram (tree runs for days), and Kurohime (chill, under-the-radar).