
山形
Yamagata
Tohoku powder, snow monsters, and old-school onsen vibes.
Yamagata is the quiet achiever of Japow. Think frigid storms rolling in off the Sea of Japan, beech forests spaced just right, and steamy onsen towns where your legs thaw out between powder days. If Hokkaido is the headliner, Yamagata is the deep-cut album you brag about later.

Zao Onsen is the marquee name — an expansive mountain with those famous juhyō “snow monsters,” long cruisers, sneaky side hits, and a real-deal hot spring village at the base. South of there, Tengendai Kogen keeps it simple: compact, steeper pitches, and storm days that reward the faithful. Come spring, Gassan flips the script and opens when most of Japan winds down — corn one day, boot-top refills the next if a late squall hits.
Base yourself in Zao Onsen for walkable lifts, ramen within a snowball’s throw, and night tours to the illuminated monsters. Kaminoyama Onsen is a handy, lower-key hub on the shinkansen line, with quick access to Zao. Yonezawa sets you up for Tengendai and quieter backcountry missions. Feeling romantic? Ginzan Onsen is straight out of a postcard — ideal for a rest day and a soak.
Insider tip: Rent a car. Storms can park over one valley and skip the next; wheels let you hop between Zao, Tengendai, and (in spring) Gassan for the best snow on the day.
All Yamagata Reviews
Find Your Fit
Dial up the filters and lock in a resort that matches your crew — powder priorities, kid-friendly laps, spring corn missions, or all of the above.
Top Resorts by Snowfall
Storm-born stacks, consistent refresh, grins under a face mask.
Uncrowded Resorts
Empty chairs, quiet glades, first tracks that last.
Top Resorts by Ability
From confidence-building greens to “you go first” steeps.
Tree Skiing
Beech-line spacing, natural fall lines, storm-day sanctuary.
Big Mountain Vertical
Top-to-bottom burners with legs humming at the onsen.
Family Friendly
Short shuffles to lifts, mellow zones, cocoa on speed dial.
Night Skiing
Glow of the village, fresh squeaks after sunset.
Best Value Resorts
Wallet-happy tickets, hearty eats, and roomy lodges.
Powder Hunter’s Choice
Frequent refills, fewer people, terrain with teeth.
Getting There
- Shinkansen: Take the Yamagata Shinkansen (Tsubasa) from Tokyo to Kaminoyama-Onsen or Yamagata; buses/taxis to Zao Onsen from there.
- Air: Fly into Sendai (SDJ) or Yamagata (GAJ); rental cars make resort-hopping easy.
- Bus links: Regular winter buses from Yamagata Station to Zao Onsen; check return times if you plan a late onsen soak.
- Driving: Tohoku expressways are well maintained — pack chains/snow tires and watch for whiteouts on mountain passes.
When to Go
- Powder prime: Late December – late February for the coldest storms and deepest tree days.
- Snow monsters: Best mid-Jan to late Feb — catch the night illumination at Zao.
- Spring special: Gassan typically opens late spring into early summer — corn laps, novelty turns, big smiles.
- Crowds: Weekdays feel delightfully empty — avoid Lunar New Year and long weekends for max solitude.
Money & Logistics
- Lift tickets: Tohoku pricing is kinder than the big names down south — solid value for deep snow.
- Onsen tax & towels: Some inns add a small local onsen fee — bring a small towel for the bath circuit.
- Cash vs card: More card-friendly each year, but rural joints still love cash — hit an ATM before heading up.
- Food: Warm up with imoni (taro stew), Yonezawa beef, and late-night gyoza.
- Rentals & lessons: Available at Zao — smaller hills may have limited English support, so book ahead if you can.
Language & Etiquette
- Onsen manners: Rinse well before soaking; no swimsuits; keep towels out of the water.
- Lift lines: No pushing; merge neatly; poles off to the side.
- Trees & ropes: Patrol expects you to respect closures — duck ropes and you’ll likely get reeled in.
- A few phrases go far: A simple ありがとうございます (arigatō gozaimasu) earns smiles everywhere.
Nearby Adventures
- Yamadera (Risshaku-ji): Stair climb to a cliff-top temple — stellar in winter.
- Sake hopping: Try local breweries (Dewasakura and friends) after the last run.
- Night monsters: Zao’s juhyō illumination is uniquely Yamagata — don’t miss it.
- Day swing south: Hit Tengendai for steeper shots when Zao’s winded.
- Spring road trip: Roll to Gassan for novelty turns and sun-soft snow.