Takamine Mountain Park

Takamine Mountain Hotel sits right by the slopes and is the easiest option, with simple rooms, a restaurant and quick access to the lifts. Takamine Kogen Hotel, just across the road, has the Komakusa no Yu onsen (named after the komakusa, a tiny alpine flower that grows on the volcano). It's open to day skiers, and a soak with the mountains glowing pink at sunset is about as good as après gets around here.

The most memorable stay is Takamine Onsen, a remote mountain lodge known for its lamp-lit bath and night skies. In winter, you reach it by snowcat from the road. It is popular with snowshoers, stargazers and couples, and the outdoor bath at around 2,000 m on a clear, freezing night is unforgettable.

For more choice and cheaper rooms, stay in Komoro or Saku-Daira. Both have business hotels near the station and easy road access up the mountain. Karuizawa, about an hour away, has the best range of hotels and restaurants if you're mixing ski days with shopping and sightseeing.

The Diving run is the signature slope, a wide, single sheet of corduroy that averages 22 degrees and is the place to work on your carving or race the locals. It is the first run to open each season, usually in late November. Central is the best cruiser on the hill, about 900 m of rolling terrain with dips and side hits that make it more fun than its 16 degree average suggests. Panorama, the longest run at around 1,000 m, mixes steeper and gentler pitches with big views across to the Shirane peaks and Tsumagoi. Antelope is short but steepens sharply halfway down, and after a fresh snowfall it is the one run that holds soft, untracked snow for a few laps. Beginners and kids get the gentle Beginners run (7 degrees, separate from the faster slopes), plus Sunshine, a sunny, easy run with views to Kurofu-yama. Everything outside the courses, including the forest and under the lifts, is closed, and patrol will take your ticket if you duck the ropes. This is a groomer resort, so bring sharp edges and enjoy the views.

By car: about 30 minutes from Komoro interchange on the Joshinetsu Expressway, via the Cherry Park Line from Komoro. That is the only winter access. The road from the Tsumagoi side in Gunma is closed in winter, so double-check your navigation. Winter tyres are essential, and the climb is steep, with tight curves.

By bus: a JR Bus runs in winter from Sakudaira Station (on the Hokuriku Shinkansen) via Komoro, leaving in the morning and arriving at the resort in about an hour, with one bus back in the late afternoon. Check the timetable before you go. Sakudaira is about 70 minutes from Tokyo by Shinkansen.

Takamine suits families, beginners and intermediates who want a cheap, uncrowded day with reliable snow and big views, and anyone who wants to get on snow in November or keep going into April. It is also a good half-day stop for people staying in Karuizawa or Komoro. Advanced skiers will enjoy carving Diving for an hour or two, then run out of terrain. Powder hunters and tree skiers will be bored and should head for Hakuba Valley or Shiga Kogen.

Restaurant Raccoon, in the center house at the base, is the main lunch spot, a big 350-seat canteen serving ramen, curry, katsu and morning sets from 7:30. Break Spot Canady, a log cabin near the lifts, does pizza, doria and soup, and is a nicer spot for a break when the sun is out.

After skiing, it's onsen time. For dinner, head down to Komoro, where you'll find good soba made from Shinshu buckwheat, a couple of local sake breweries and small izakaya near the station. Karuizawa has more variety, from cafes and bakeries to Western restaurants.

• Lift hours: 8:30 to 16:00. The season usually runs from late November to mid-April, with the Diving run opening first.
• Cheap days: on the first and third Sundays from December to April, primary school kids ski free. Lift tickets are cheaper when bought online and in the opening and spring periods.
• Altitude: at 2,000 m, it gets very cold and the sun is strong. Bring warm layers, sunscreen and good goggles.
• Snow: natural snowfall is modest. Expect firm, dry groomers rather than powder.
• Volcano: Mt. Asama is active, and access to its summit area is restricted. The ski resort itself sits well outside the restricted zone.

Nearby resorts worth pairing

Karuizawa is about an hour away and makes an easy double. Yunomaru and Kazawa Snow Area are about an hour away by road, since the direct pass is closed in winter. Palcall Tsumagoi and Shirakaba 2in1 are good options for a few days of road-tripping. Our Tokyo long-weekend powder escape shows how to string together nearby resorts.