Marunuma Kogen

Marunuma skis bigger than the paper stats because the vertical is uninterrupted. From 2,000 m, the main arteries run true fall line, with pitch that invites real speed control and big-radius arcs. On reset mornings you’ll often find boot-top deep in the upper gullies and behind micro-berms; in-between cycles, wind buff polishes the faces and the chalk holds on the shadier ribs.

Start with the Nikko Shiraneyama Ropeway for a top-down warmup. Hit the longest cruiser from summit to base to test the surface — if the overnight low bit deep, you’ll be trenching corduroy and eyeing the slight rollovers for slashes. From there, shift to the No. 4 and No. 5 Super Twin pairs to recycle the upper pitches. These sit in the zone that keeps the best snow quality, especially when lower elevations start to soften toward midday.

Designated ungroomed strips appear after storms and are the fastest way to find soft turns without rope drama. They get popular early, so be decisive. Once they’re skied out, work the margins: the tree-fringe carries pockets that refill with spindrift, and the small wind lips above the cat tracks can be strung into a playful little topography tour. When gusts have moved snow overnight, look for wind-loaded ribs that ride smooth rather than sharky; if a southerly cooked a face, slide a ridge over and hunt shade.

Intermediates absolutely thrive here. The blue network isn’t just meandering connectors — you get honest gradients that teach speed management without tossing you into a no-fall zone. If you’re stepping up, the resort is perfect for progression: start on the base greens, graduate to the broad blues off No. 1 and Chuo, then dip into marked soft-snow areas when it resets. Advanced riders won’t mistake Marunuma for a big gate-access freeride mountain, but they’ll rack satisfying mileage and still sneak white room moments when the radar turns blue.

Tree skiing exists in the fringes rather than as a formal program. If you can still see the groomer and you’re not ducking ropes, threading gentle glades along course margins is generally in the spirit of the place. True sidecountry missions are not the move — there’s no gate system, terrain traps lurk, and exits can turn into long traverses or awkward hikes. If you want to skin-track, save that energy for a dedicated backcountry day elsewhere.

By late day, surfaces often transition from chalk to butter. That’s your cue to settle into high-tempo carving on the blues and let the full 600 m vertical torch your legs. Because there’s no night skiing, the best tactic is front-load your morning for corduroy, hit soft pockets late morning, then chase the smoothest shade down to last chair.

• Carvers and all-mountain riders who love clean fall line, consistent grooming, and sneaky soft pockets after a reset.
• Progressing intermediates wanting long, confidence-building runs with honest gradient rather than short connectors.
• Families needing an intuitive base, clear signage, and terrain that steps up in sensible increments.
  If your trip is built around gate-access trees, rope drops, and deep sidecountry — this isn’t that. Pair Marunuma with Mt. T (Tenjin) on a cold, stable cycle for your freeride hit, then come back here for high-mileage recovery and grin-inducing cord.

On-slope: Chalet-style hotel and simple lodges near Central Station keep things ruthlessly easy — walk to the ropeway, big drying rooms, early breakfast so you make first chair, and public baths for post-ride legs. It’s ski-in/ski-out in spirit even if you click in near the plaza.

Katashina pensions: Down-valley pensions and minshuku are the classic Gunma experience — cedar interiors, home-style dinners, warm hosts who get dawn patrol. Many will nudge breakfast forward if the forecast screams free refills, and parking is usually well plowed even if it’s nuking.

Town bases: Numata and Minakami offer business hotels with late check-in, convenience stores steps away, and easy Kan-Etsu highway access — ideal if you’re storm-chasing between Marunuma, White World Oze Iwakura, Hodaigi, and Mt. T. Practical, affordable, and perfect for last-minute plan changes.

On-mountain, think Japan’s winter comfort canon: katsu-curry, steam-bath ramen, and karaage that crunches loud enough to turn heads. Portions are sensible and the cafeterias move lines fast, which keeps you on snow. Coffee is basic but hot — grab one for the ropeway and call it good.

Après is very Gunma — low-key and hot-spring heavy. The smart rhythm is lot beers as alpenglow paints Nikko-Shirane, a soak at a nearby onsen, and a big feed back at your pension. If you need more buzz, save it for a city night bookend in Tokyo; this valley is built for dawn patrol, not shot-ski marathons.

From Tokyo, it’s Kan-Etsu Expressway to Numata IC, then ~50 minutes of mountain roads to base. In good weather, door-to-door can be ~3 hours from the northern suburbs. The final climb winds and can glaze quickly — proper winter tires are non-negotiable and carrying chains is smart when a system lines up.

Train works with planning: Jōetsu Shinkansen to Jōmō-Kōgen or Takasaki, local to Numata, then bus or taxi via the Oze Katashina station stop. Buses are thinner midweek and late afternoon; build your day around their timetable, not the other way around. Flying in? Haneda is the efficient gateway; rent a car with decent snow tires and make it a Gunma sampler.

• Lift hours: Typically ~08:30 – 16:00 in mid-winter; spring shifts can extend select lifts — check the board in Central Station each morning.
• Lift access / gates: 1 ropeway to 2,000 m, plus No. 1–5 and No. 8 pairs and a Chuo pair serving the core. There’s no gate network; patrol will pull tickets for rope-ducking.
• Snow & weather: Elevation keeps surfaces dry; wind buff can smooth the top after gusty nights. On bluebird days, dust-on-crust softens by late morning — prime time for big-radius carving.
• Language & payments: Limited English day-to-day, but trail boards and base maps are clear. Cards usually work at the ticket window; carry cash for small eateries and pensions.
• Became popular in recent years: Yes — the long season to Golden Week and reliable high-altitude surface have boosted its profile with Kanto riders.
• Prices around the resort: Mid — lift price is fair for the size; food is sensible; pensions are good value midweek.
• Nearby pairings: Stack Marunuma with Oze Iwakura for steeper shots, Hodaigi for long groomers and pockets, Norn Minakami for shoulder-season hours, and Mt. T when a cold, stable cycle invites bigger alpine.