Hodaigi

The mountain splits into broad mid-mountain groomers and steeper upper ridges served by the #8 and #9 quads. Start high: from the top of #9 you’ve got a true “big hill” feel with a skyline of Tanigawa and a choice between the ridgey Narinodaira / #10 course for long-arc carving or the #9 course to slingshot back toward the #8 zone. Snow stays wintery up here, and on storm mornings the wind loads pockets just off the main spines — great for quick, low-viz powder pills without committing to anything consequential.

Slide skier’s right and you enter the heart of Hodaigi’s groomer machine. Family and Tanpopo are long, confidence-building blues, ideal for building speed control and edge angle, and they hold shape most of the day. On cold high-pressure days, they’re hero runs — you can stitch 2 km of carving from the #9 ridge to the base if you time the merges right. Park kids lap the #6 zone, which now features waves, hips and small-to-mid features that are actually maintained, not token; it’s obvious the park has had fresh attention.

Advanced riders should point to the #7 chair when visibility allows. Eagle, Downhill, and Paradise drop faster and steeper than most Honshu “intermediate mountains,” topping out at 40° on Eagle with sustained fall-line. These upper blacks don’t always groom; when they’re left to fill and bumped, they’ll hold soft, chalky lines for hours. Hit them early on a reset, then rotate back toward #8 as traffic migrates.

The upgrade that matters for powder hunters: an official tree-run area was introduced alongside a modernized park program. It’s not a gate-system free-for-all like Hokkaido’s heavyweights, but it turns previously “don’t-even-think-about-it” woods into managed, legit fun — perfect for snagging cold smoke between the main groomer laps. Beyond marked areas, off-piste remains restricted; respect nets and signs or expect a chat with patrol.

Crowd pattern is predictable: Saturdays bring energy and lines at the lower chairs, but the upper quads circulate well and stormy weather spreads people out. Midweek is a different mountain — locals at work, lanes open, and untracked along the course edges hanging around through late morning. If it’s nuking, treat #8 as your storm lift; it’s more sheltered and links multiple zones without committing to the ridge.

Confident intermediates who love long cruisers and want to step into steeper pitches will thrive here. Advanced riders get genuine challenge on the #7 face plus an official tree-run to spice up storm cycles. If you need high-alpine bowls or massive off-piste gates, look across the valley to Tenjin — but if you want consistent snow, varied aspects, and a day you can string together without stress, Hodaigi is money.

Base-area lodging is limited, so most riders bed down in Minakami Onsen or the nearby valleys. Takaragawa Onsen Ousenkaku is the postcard choice — a proper riverside ryokan with enormous rotenburo (outdoor baths) and traditional meals, about 20–30 minutes’ drive from the lifts. It’s the kind of place that makes you forget your phone and remember how good onsen steam feels after storm days.

Closer to town, you’ll find classic ryokan and hotels spanning sensible to splurge: Ryokan Tanigawa and Bettei Senjuan are perennial favorites for service and food; families often target mid-range spots near Minakami Station or Yubiso for easy dining and parking. Budget riders do well in pensions and small inns dotted around the valley.

Après is mellow but not missing: Minakami has a small craft-beer heartbeat at Octone Brewing, handy izakaya around Suwakyo, and plenty of hearty set-meal joints where you can re-fuel without blowing the budget. If you crave nightlife, plan dinner and drinks in town — the mountain base winds down with the lifts.

On-mountain there are six eateries — ramen, curry, kebab, Okinawa soba, sweets — spread across the mid-station zone so you’re never far from a warm bowl when the wind starts to howl. It’s straightforward, fast, and friendly; when the sun makes a cameo, grab a tray and park it where you can watch the park line go by. Down in Minakami, look for Suwakyo-area restaurants and the Octone taproom for a post-soak pint.

From Tokyo, ride the Joetsu Shinkansen to Jōmō-Kōgen (about 70–80 minutes), then connect by bus or taxi — about 45 minutes to the resort. On select days there’s a free shuttle from Jōmō-Kōgen and Minakami; otherwise, route buses plus a short shuttle cover the last leg to the base.

Driving is simple but wintry: exit the Kan-Etsu Expressway at Minakami IC and follow signs 19 km (≈30 minutes). This is real snow country — run proper winter tires and carry chains. Weekend parking fees may apply in peak period; weekdays are often free.

• Lift hours: Typically 08:30–16:30; no night skiing. Storms or wind can adjust operations — check the morning report.
• Backcountry / OB: Enjoy the designated tree-run area; outside ropes and nets is off-limits and patrol enforced.
• Weather: Cold northwesterlies stack the upper ridge; chalky wind-buff is common between storms.
• Language: English info exists (and lessons are easy to arrange), but most signage is Japanese — a few key phrases help.
• Nearby resorts: Tanigawadake Tenjindaira for bigger snow and steeps; Kawaba and Minakami Kogen for variety within an hour’s drive.
• Longest run: 2,600 m top-to-bottom with multiple ways to link it.