Togari Onsen

Togari Onsen village is the most convenient base, with minshuku and pensions spread along the lower slopes, many within walking distance of the lifts or offering shuttles. Expect futons on tatami, generous set dinners, shared baths and owners who have been hosting school ski trips for decades. If you have never stayed in one, our guide to what a minshuku is explains what to expect. Hoshi no Yado, a lodge at the resort with family-friendly rooms, is a more modern option if you want something easier for young kids.

Nozawa Onsen across the river is the obvious alternative if you want more restaurants, bars and a lively village at night, with Togari about 15 to 20 minutes away by car or taxi. It works well for groups who want to ski Nozawa Onsen most days and use Togari for a quieter powder day. Rooms in Nozawa Onsen book out early for January and February, so start looking in mid-year. Our Nozawa Onsen accommodation guide covers the options.

Iiyama is the practical choice if you are moving around. It has the Shinkansen station, business hotels and convenience stores, and a shuttle bus up to Togari in about 25 minutes. It is not a ski town and is very quiet at night, but it works as a base for skiing Togari, Nozawa Onsen and Madarao on different days depending on the weather.

Snow is the headline. Togari sits in the same Sea of Japan snowbelt as Nozawa Onsen and Madarao, and the resort runs on 100% natural snow with no snowmaking. Midwinter storms bring regular overnight refills, usually boot-top to knee-deep, and the snow stays light in January and February. The hill is not high, so warm spells and late season can leave a crust on the lower slopes, and spring snow turns heavy quickly in the afternoon.

The terrain is split across two areas. Earth Dragon Field is the place to start, with mellow beginner runs and long, easy cruisers like Tail Line, plus the SAJ-certified mogul course Spike Line for anyone who wants their knees tested. Sky Dragon Field has more pitch and the best powder runs. Backbone is the longest run on the hill at about 1.4 km, a gentle intermediate cruiser that is perfect for warming up or carving on a groomer morning. Cloud Line is the more interesting intermediate at around 800 m with a steady pitch.

For strong skiers, the run to know is Wing Line, an ungroomed advanced course of about 750 m that gets left alone for powder after a storm. Claw Line is the steepest on the hill at around 34 degrees but only a few hundred metres long, and Dragon Head is another short, steep pitch that holds soft snow well. None of these are long, but on a storm day you can lap them repeatedly while most of the hill is still skiing the groomers.

Tree skiing is allowed in designated areas at your own risk, and the resort recommends helmets and protective gear. The trees are mostly well spaced, good for intermediate tree skiers, but patrol closes them after heavy snow or when coverage is thin, so check conditions at the ticket office before heading in. There is no gate network, and the land outside the ropes is steep, gully-filled and not patrolled. Duck a rope and you can lose your ticket.

A good storm-day plan is to start on Sky Dragon Field for first tracks on Wing Line, move into the open tree areas once patrol has cleared them, and drop back to Earth Dragon's lower runs if wind affects the top lifts. Crowds are rarely a problem except on weekends and around New Year, when local families from Iiyama and Nagano city fill the beginner slopes. If you want sidecountry or backcountry, do it as a separate guided day, and read our guide to skiing backcountry and sidecountry in Japan safely first.

From Tokyo, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station (about 1 hour 40 minutes), then the shuttle bus to the resort, which takes around 25 minutes. Alternatively, take the local JR Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawaonsen Station, which is about 5 minutes from the slopes by taxi. Check the shuttle times before you travel, as they are limited outside peak season.

If you are driving, take the Joshin-etsu Expressway to Toyota-Iiyama IC, then about 25 minutes along the river valley. Winter tyres are essential and chains are a good idea in heavy snow. The roads near the village are narrow with tall snowbanks, so allow extra time and give snowplows plenty of space. Our guide to winter car hire and driving in Japan covers the basics.

Togari is for skiers who want northern Nagano snow without the price tags and crowds of the big names. Beginners have wide, gentle slopes on Earth Dragon Field, intermediates get long cruisers and a few tree areas, and mogul skiers get one of the best bump runs in the country. Advanced skiers will enjoy storm days on Wing Line and the steeper pitches, but will run out of terrain after two or three days, so plan to split a trip with Nozawa Onsen across the river. If you want big vertical, a gondola, nightlife or English everywhere, this is not your hill. If you want a cheap, snowy, low-key base with good onsen, it is a strong choice.

The renovation brought the biggest food upgrade the hill has had in years. Alongside the usual katsu curry, ramen and curry rice, the base now has a branch of Yakiniku Jumbo, the well-known Tokyo grill restaurant, and a tsukemen (dipping noodle) shop from Harajuku, both a step up from typical ski lodge food. Down in the village, the options are small and family-run: izakaya serving local vegetables and river fish, soba shops and a few bars. Après is mostly an onsen soak followed by dinner at your lodging, and maybe a highball at a small bar if you can stay awake. If you want a proper night out, go to Nozawa Onsen.

• Lift hours: roughly 8:30 am to 4:30 pm, with an 8 am start on weekends and holidays. Night skiing runs on select evenings from 6 pm to 8 pm, mostly Saturdays plus the New Year holidays.
• Tree areas: allowed in designated areas at your own risk. Wear a helmet, ski with a partner and respect closures after storms. Outside the ropes is unpatrolled and off-limits.
• Snow: all natural, no snowmaking. Early-season coverage depends on the first storms, so the best months are January and February. March brings warmer days and heavier snow.
• Language: basic English at ticket and rental counters, very little elsewhere. A translation app and a few Japanese phrases go a long way. Carry cash for small village restaurants.
• Onsen: the village hot springs are part of the appeal. Wash before you get in and no swimsuits. Our onsen etiquette guide explains the rules.

Nearby resorts worth pairing

Nozawa Onsen is just across the river and has far more terrain, steeper runs and a lively village. Madarao, about 40 minutes away, is known for its excellent tree skiing. On storm days, use the weather and crowds to decide between them.