Mount Racey

Mount Racey is compact on the map, but from the top station it rides like a hand-fan of fall-line choices. The Shuttle 6 Gondola is your express to the goods; from there, the frontside spreads into groomers, gullies, and tree ribbons that stack snow all season. The snow itself has that inland Hokkaido character — very dry, chalky-soft when temps are frigid, and just a touch denser than coastal storms, which helps the base hold up when the sun peeks out.

On a storm morning I’ll head skier’s right toward the Carving Line and the trees just off it. These pitches are short but legit — posted max angles in the 40s — and they fill in quickly when overnight totals hit. Keep sliding down to the Thrilling Line zone for sheltered shots with natural rollers. It’s easy to ping-pong groomer to trees to groomer without burning time in traverses, which keeps your legs making turns, not hikes.

Midday, once the obvious is chopped, Racey rewards you for reading the mountain. The lee sides between Panorama A/B and the upper ridge keep soft wind-deposits; edges of Swinging A/C hang onto chalk and recycled powder. The snow surface here evolves predictably — cold chalk on wind-pressed spines, buttery sift in the gullies — so you can keep stringing quality fall-line from top to bottom. If it’s nuking, tree lines off Thrilling stay friendly and visibility holds; if it’s bluebird after snow, groomers run fast and grippy.

The lift layout is simple and efficient. Two high-speed quads and that gondola do the heavy lifting, while the pair chairs work as intelligent feeders. You’re not queuing for the sake of queuing; if you time it right (and you’re willing to slide to a neighboring quad when the gondola draws a line), you’ll spend most of your day in motion. Wind holds are rare compared with more exposed coastal resorts.

A note on boundaries: there is no gate system here, and the patrol is protective of the lines outside the marked network. The in-bounds tree skiing is fair game and fun, but ducking ropes into closed or out-of-area terrain will earn you a chat — and potentially a surrendered pass. If you want big backcountry, Racey isn’t built for that. If you want fast powder farming and clean, steep groomers with side hits and glades, you’re in the right spot.

Local tips from too many mornings here: boot up early, ride the Shuttle 6 Gondola to set your tone, then work skier’s right trees before the racers cycle through. When visibility tanks, drop into the lower-mountain trees beside Thrilling. On weekends, sneak to the Dancers 4 quad after 10 — the flow there stays quick while the gondola attracts sightseers. And if a dry cold snap follows a storm, the groomers here absolutely rip.

Advanced skiers and riders who love fall-line groomers with real pitch, short bursts of steep, and legit trees will feel at home. Strong intermediates get a great progression — plenty of blue terrain with character, not just boulevards. If your mission is big backcountry or wide-open alpine, Racey will feel contained. If you want easy travel, consistent snow, and a high-value powder day near CTS, it’s money.

The classic base is Hotel Mount Racey at the foot of the resort. It’s slope-convenient with onsen baths to reset the legs and a hearty breakfast scene that fuels a long day. Rooms aren’t flashy, but waking up a short stroll from the gondola is a win in any language.

Budget-minded riders gravitate to Hostel Himawari and small pensions around Yubari. You trade nightly frills for a cheap, warm place to crash and a kitchen to sort ramen and rice bowls after riding — ideal if you’re stacking days and prioritizing snow over spa menus.

If you’re road-tripping, Sapporo-area business hotels and Chitose stays keep costs down while letting you bounce to Racey on short notice when the radar turns blue and purple. Nightlife is quiet in Yubari; expect a low-key town with a few izakaya, a convenience store run, and early starts. The onsen scene is the vibe: soak, eat, sleep, repeat.

On-mountain cafeterias serve the classics — katsu curry, ramen, karaage — fast and hot. At the base, you’ll find casual cafés and a grab-and-go spot for quick caffeine before the first gondola. In town, look for small izakaya doing grilled yakitori and Hokkaido comfort dishes; menus may be Japanese-only, but staff are welcoming and pointing works wonders. Yubari’s melon is the celebrity of summer; in winter you’ll still spot melon sweets around town.

Apres here is mellow. Think onsen soak and a bowl of miso ramen rather than a DJ and a spritz. If you want late-night energy, base yourself nearer Sapporo and day-trip to Racey.

Closest airport: New Chitose (CTS), about 55–60 km by car. From Sapporo it’s roughly 60–90 minutes depending on traffic and snow. The drive is straightforward but roads ice up quickly, so winter tires and smooth throttle are your friends. There’s bus service in season and hotel shuttles some winters — but car rental is the move if you want dawn-patrol flexibility. JR’s old Yubari line is gone; if you’re doing public transport, you’ll be transferring to local buses — workable, but build in buffer time.

• Lift hours: Typically 09:00–16:00, mid-December to late March. Early/late season and weather can tweak this.
• Boundaries & safety: No gate system. Trees in-bounds are fair game; rope-ducking or OB may cost your pass. Carry your usual kit and brain.
• Snow & weather: Inland Hokkaido means cold, dry snow with a slightly higher bluebird rate than coastal zones. When it’s cold after a storm, groomers ski like velvet.
• Language: Limited English overall, better at ticketing/rentals. Google Translate and smiles go a long way.
• Unique bits: Short, very steep shots like the Carving Line; a fun “double spiral” feature; excellent fall-line grooming.
• Nearby options: Within a few hours you’ve got Tomamu, Furano, and Sahoro — good add-ons for a central Hokkaido circuit.