Tenjin

Mt. T’s trump card is its elevation and exposure. At 1,500 m on the upper ridge, it sits high for Honshu, catching cold northwest storms straight off the Sea of Japan. Snow comes in deep and dry — the kind that hisses under your board and stacks up in your boots when you stop to catch your breath.

The ropeway is the heart of the operation. It whisks you from the base to the high alpine zone in under ten minutes, delivering you into a world of open bowls, steep fall-lines, and treed gullies. The main Tenjin slope offers a groomed route down for warming up the legs or easing into the day, but most riders here are eyeing the sides — short traverses open into glades and gullies that hold stashes long after a storm.

Off the top, advanced riders can drop toward the famous Tajirisawa course — a 4 km descent that starts steep, funnels into a natural halfpipe of trees, and spits you out grinning. The Takakurayama side is equally tempting, with tree lines that are more sheltered when the weather turns fierce. Both zones are compact, but they ski big thanks to the pitch and snow quality.

Backcountry access here is no joke. Gates (when open) lead into high-consequence alpine terrain, with Tanigawadake’s ridges tempting experienced ski tourers. But this is avalanche country, and the ski patrol keeps a close eye on conditions. If you’re not trained and equipped, stick to the lift-served goods — you’ll still find plenty to smile about.

The lift network is basic but functional: the ropeway plus a few fixed-grip pairs. Speeds are nothing to brag about, but with minimal lines, you’re rarely waiting more than a few minutes. It feels more “earned turns” than “resort churn” — which fits the place perfectly.

Local tip: On a storm day, head for the trees skiers’ left of the Tenjin slope — they fill in fast and keep the wind at bay. On bluebird days after a big dump, beeline for Tajirisawa first run — it’s as good as it gets.

If your idea of a great day involves beacon checks, hunting untracked glades, and ending the day tired in the best possible way, Mt. T is for you. Advanced and strong intermediate riders will have the most fun — there’s enough groomed to keep the legs moving between pow runs, but this isn’t a place for endless cruiser mileage.

Beginner terrain exists but is limited; first-timers will find more forgiving options at nearby Okutone or Minakami Kogen. Families with mixed abilities will manage fine if expectations are set — the setting is stunning and the base is compact, but the real action is on steeper, ungroomed lines.

On-mountain lodging is limited to day facilities, so you’re looking at staying down in Minakami or the surrounding valley. That’s not a bad thing — it opens up options from budget to boutique, and lets you soak in the area’s famous hot springs.

Budget chasers can snag simple pensions or business hotels in Minakami for under ¥7,000 a night. These places are clean, functional, and often run by friendly owners who’ll give you the day’s weather in detail over breakfast.

Mid-range travellers can opt for ryokans with in-room meals, where dinner is a spread of local mountain vegetables, river fish, and steaming rice — all capped off with an onsen soak as snow falls outside. If you want a taste of luxury without Niseko prices, some riverside resorts offer private outdoor baths with mountain views for around ¥20,000 a night.

Doai station, Japan’s famously deep underground railway stop, is just down the road and has a couple of quirky guesthouses. Staying here puts you close to the ropeway and gives you a dose of rural Japan you won’t get in bigger resort towns.

The base lodge cafeteria keeps things simple: steaming bowls of miso ramen, Japanese curry, tonkatsu plates — hearty fuel for a cold day. Prices are reasonable given the setting, and the portions generous enough to power you through the afternoon.

Evenings are best spent in Minakami. Here you’ll find izakaya serving grilled yakitori and locally brewed sake, soba noodle shops using spring water from the surrounding mountains, and a few modern cafés with surprisingly good espresso. Nightlife is low-key — think relaxed conversations over hot sake rather than thumping bars — which suits the early-to-bed, early-to-ropeway crowd.

Reaching Mt. T from Tokyo is straightforward. By train, take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Jōmō-Kōgen (around 75 minutes), then transfer to a local bus or taxi for the final 30 minutes to the ropeway. By car, it’s about two hours via the Kan-etsu Expressway to Minakami IC, then 14 km up mountain roads.

Winter driving here can be serious — snow tires or chains are essential, and after a big storm, even locals take it slow. The ropeway’s multi-level parking is a blessing, keeping cars snow-free and ready for the drive back.

If you’re planning multiple days, having a rental car opens up the entire Minakami area — from Okutone to White Valley — and lets you chase conditions.

• Lift Hours: Typically 8:30 – 16:00 (last ropeway down ~16:20).
• Avalanche Reality: The surrounding peaks are serious — if you venture beyond ropes, bring gear, knowledge, and a partner.
• Snow Window: Best from late December to early March for prime pow; April can still hold good days.
• Language: Limited English; learn a few basics and you’ll be fine.
• Nearby Day Trips: Try Takaragawa Onsen for an unforgettable outdoor bath surrounded by snow.